welcome to the latest upset with you
coming to you well release its beginning
part from inside my living room because
it's bloody freezing cold right sorry
this video is a mix of
this video is a mix of tech and testing
and it's right something we've got on
all our cars which is the air intake
system what I mean by the air intake
system is on a naturally aspirated
engine I mean all the way up to the
throttle body on a turbo engine I mean
anything that's the turbo inlet so
basically the turbo inlet pipe the MAF
sensor if there is one the airbox and
the in let's not go to the outlooks most
people go from modified air intakes
because the tuning company tells them to
do so or something on the internet tells
them to do so on a flip side of that
there's a lot of people who will swear
blowing any modified air intake is worse
on power than standard or sucking hot
air or losing power
little two-step arm and in some cases
that might be true as well
but the fact is almost none of them have
ever got any proof Eva
sometimes what they call proof is just
flawed science because they will
reference some rolling roll figures
where the car come filter has lost power
but that's the tenants apparently it's a
car static on a rolling road where
there's no after all under the bonnet or
very little moving airflow so it's
settling hot
what's my opinion on water fine air
intakes well the most important thing by
far and this is what a lot of people
don't take into account is enough air
it's far more important than cold air
you can have the coldest air in the
world but if there isn't enough of it
you lose a night more than if there was
enough horror how in the restricted area
neck just to get cooler air is like
knock your foot Justin stop stubbing
your toe you're preventing one thing by
causing a bigger problem people go for
colder air but accidentally restricting
their Inlet setup is actually extra
stupid on turbo cars it's not only are
you losing power by simply not getting
an affair my whole cooler outside air is
once it exits the compressor housing the
temps of well over 100 degrees Celsius
anyhow so these good in the corner to
get it to a sensible temperature no
matter what the second most important
reason any internet restrictions a
really stupid idea on a turbo car is any
restriction at all causes a turbo to
work harder which means the compressor
outlet temperatures are far higher it
also means exhaust gas temperatures are
far higher that also means the exhaust
back pressure is far higher because the
turbine has to work harder what that
basically means is that no matter how
cool the air is that nearly all outdoor
ricean once it exits a compressor is far
hotter than it would be if there wasn't
a restrictive in that set your actual
overall temperature is much worse and
your power levels far worse
so you basically shot yourself in the
foot just so you can say your circuit in
combat is
I would settle this providing there's no
internet restriction cold areas a bonus
of course and also what is bonus is not
having to modify you in that system
because it turns out it's perfectly fine
after all thinking as most people have
no proof they don't even know how to
check all they just believe what a 1002
but this is stuff tech which is all
about facts and proof rather than
opinion and sales talk so I'm going to
show you exactly how to check if you've
got any kind of Internet restriction and
be testing myself to see what's going on
in one of my own cars
suppose you test results of the years
and I thought my independent or accurate
they are but the results always
relatively similar you don't see any
five to ten percent increase in power
for every one percent reduction of Inlet
restriction that's equivalent of an
extra 10 to 20 horsepower on a 200 brake
engine
away from these tests the actual
scientific theory seems to say that for
every one psi of inlet restriction you
can reduce you should gain around about
six percent power that's fairly a wall
part for the five to ten percent
increase if people have seen in the test
and that's the equivalent of adding 12
horsepower to eternal brake engine which
again is a fair bit for doing very
little to be honest
firstly for the Paragons the test that
I've seen and even a theory seems to say
if you even had one psi of vacuum in you
in that system you'd be mad not to sorte
but below about naught point to 5 psi
vacuum I think you're kind of gotta be
pretty obsessed with gaining every last
horsepower to really worry about that
some new level
one thing you don't do is use a normal
vacuum gauge because when we're talking
in that restriction unless your car
intake is really properly rubbish we're
talking fractions of one PSI not enough
that will show up accurately on any
normal vacuum gauge well there's various
scientific equipment you can use to test
pressure differentials like this the
easiest way is using one of these
digital manometers they're pretty cheap
to buy they're very easy to use I'm a
bit of an idiot with anything electronic
and I can figure this out that easy and
it's actually accurate down to naught
point naught naught 2 of a PSI and good
silver in Northpoint to 5 psi is
probably about as low as you would want
to even worry about adjusting your inlet
port and you don't need any more
accuracy on this basically it's got two
inputs and it basically measures the
pressure differential between those two
points so you could hook up them to any
two points really and check the
difference but on an intake because
you're really only worried about lower
than atmospheric the easiest way is to
leave this one just to atmosphere so it
knows what the ideal Inlet pressure is
and hook this one up to coast say
somewhere before your terrible before
your throttle but after your mouth since
your airbox and so on then it will
basically show the differential and
pressure at the outside air which is
perfect and all the potential
restrictions and then you can work out
the problems from that
test it you gotta drive the car and you
need to drive it all the way through the
rev range with the highest numbers come
in there or there abouts at peak power
you can attempt to see where peat power
rpm is on a car because the numbers on
the gauge will also peak and start
dropping off after that while sitting
the restriction at lower rpm is also
kind of useful it's really the only the
peak number you really need to worry
about because any improvement there is
also a much bigger improvement lower
down
I'm going to do this test on not exactly
the most exciting power in the world and
it's going to be a bog-standard skill
failure with the 1.9 TDI pt100 engine
the same spine in countless box wagons I
say axis builders and my reasoning for
this is threefold
first up this test is totally Universal
it doesn't matter if you've got a moped
or a McLaren p1 Inlet restriction is
internet restriction and one PS I say
our restriction is still 5 to 10 percent
lost in power it doesn't matter
secondly to be honest these one footnote
TDI engines one of those common engines
in the country anyway probably in Europe
so any results I see will be completely
relevant to literally hundreds of noses
of cars thirdly this text was actually
inspired by reading about modified scold
a failure VXR openness which is the 1.9
TDI engine but the slightly more
powerful pv 130 model saying that the
intake is incredibly restrictive and
they all fit the PT 160 an intake
snorkel from the Sailor beef the models
far as I could see there were no actual
testing or proof but their logic was
saying because it was the same basic
engine but the PT Winther is of the
smaller intake the more powerful Peter
160 is have this larger intake so it
stands to reason say I didn't do that
for fun
my question is though how much of a
restriction is it and is it restriction
or even lower levels to that I mean the
PD would sixty engine it might be a
restriction if you went smaller
I've got PT 160 or power less is it
restriction or is it not at all
I want to find out
so I've talked in from in the comfort of
my own warm living room that's why I
decided in the freezing cold do some
actual testing right well this is a
bog-standard 1.9 TDI pd 100 engine in
the fabious here where I've mounted the
feed for the digital manometer it's
after the inlet snorkel after the airbox
after the math and about as far back as
I can realistically go and able to make
any changes you'll also see over there a
boost gauge and the digital manometer
I've got the boost gauge fitted because
while I'm 99% sure there won't be any
change in peak boost because the only
way there really is with an Internet
restriction is if the inlet restrictions
is that bad that the turbo can't reach
full flow and I'm pretty certain it
won't be the case on this engine but I
want to check anyway I'm not gonna film
the testing because it's not even fun to
do and certainly isn't fun to watch it's
literally going through the complete rev
range all the way to the rev limiter in
various gears so at various speeds and
just keep doing that over and over again
probably a good ten times until I get a
pretty repeatable result right so that's
it for now I'm not forgot
well there we go that's the first bit of
testing done it says there's a maximum
of between 1.05 and 1.15 PS o vacuum in
in there which is to be fair a pretty
massive restriction way bigger than I
thought it'd be for what a standard car
with only 100 horsepower so if we can
get that down to a more sensible level
also Wow like I said earlier on so
ideally less than a quarter of a PSI we
should really see a big difference
before I start wrecking things apart
I'm gonna get the race logic timing gear
and fit that because we need a baseline
performance figure before we do any
final testing to see what improvements
we've made there because it's all well
and good to have in less vacuum which is
in theory better but let's find out for
sure in that way as well I am gonna film
the performance test in which I'm just
going to do in third gear from 32
seventy miles an hour which is basically
from about 2000 rpm until pretty much
the rev limit it's still not be
massively exciting but I will show you
anyway to be honest it's getting dark
soon
because it's winter and it's not as
pretty starts with dark by like three
o'clock so probably by the time you see
this next bit of video it will be the
next day
after countless girls last night the
best result could get which was
repeatable was ten point seven seconds
thirty seventy miles an hour and third
which isn't very fast but it's not a
very fast car car felt okay doing so but
it certainly was running at a perfect
high rpm before it hit 70 which is to be
expected really on an engine like this
as much harder actually time in slower
cars because the slightest peel or the
slightest mistake and it really makes a
big effect on times because there's just
not enough power so it ruins it so
because that took me quite some time to
get repeatable results but I got quite a
lot of results in high tens and lower
lemons and then this temple at seven at
best which is only very slightly off and
most of the other results so I'd say
that's about right the thing is so will
any of these intake modifications make
any difference in performance let's
gonna find out right the obvious place
to start on this is this intake snorkel
which supposedly is the big restriction
on these engines and they're dead easy
to remove literally one screw there and
it pulls out it doesn't look that small
or restrictive to be perfectly honest
but they say it is so that's fine oh
well the people on the internet were
right that's no core is properly crap
the results now a nought point four five
s nought point five five psi restriction
by half a PSI better or half the
restriction they're worse just by
removing that snorkel obviously this is
on a lowly peeny 100 model something
like a PD 130 or attuned PD 100 even
these results when we massive and worse
half a PSI restriction still isn't great
though probably borderline where you
would want to start trying to improve
things so let's go back and see if we
could make things back right well
removing the snorkel alone has gained
this half a PSI less restriction which
is pretty much half of the didn't taller
structure anyways there's a pretty
massive result just from that but that
means we still got about half a PSI
which is in great still where if we
reduced and if we can
so let's have a go at the easiest thing
would be I should remove the air fill
myself that's a restriction because
that's a dead easy job two screws and
I've done it to be fair the air felt was
pretty big so I don't think this is
going to make any difference but let's
find out quickly stopped in his car
parked even update and restrictions no
showing at naught point 3 - naught point
4 psi so a bit of a drop more I actually
thought that would be but to be honest
it's not a big enough amount that you
would sort of worry about too much you
probably wouldn't even feel there and
also we've knock on air filter anymore
which is a really stupid idea
so let's go on to the next test next
time on a try is to remove the trumpet
from inside the air box I'm fairly sure
this won't help if anything it might
make it worse or since some people
asking if it's a restriction and people
saying well you can't do any harm
removing it so let's find out if they're
right or wrong some people say if the
restriction is so close to the wall of
the air box but I don't believe that for
a second - honestly it's easy to check
and easy to remove anyway
one shrimp
right all done let's do some more
driving up and down test a new net
restriction quick update from the side
of the road well as I have suspected
before I even did it removing that from
it was a bad idea it's not actually
changing much but now restrictions gone
up to nought point three five two nor
point four five psi so worse and when it
was still fitted so we know that's a bad
idea
pretty much of any car to be honest so
let's go try the next step well that
went pretty much as I thought worse than
before so why don't we just remove the
whole lot all the way up to the MAF
sensor that will tell us exactly how
much of mass sense is restricting things
let's go for another boring Drive we
literally just straight the map sensor
with no air box though nothing
we're dying frog to about naught point
three to naught point three three psi
vacuum at worst which is not nothing but
we ain't got to get any better than that
because that's clearly what the mass
census of stretching the Bible you can
probably remove a little bit more
restriction by removing the MAF sensor
mesh but sometimes that can confuse the
readings a sensor does so I'm gonna
leave that for now so now it's a small
drop between removing the snorkel and
removing its whole lot is literally
naught point one five psi it's really
not worth it for the fact again is hot
air and there's literally no filter at
all
I don't think you'd feel the difference
even in a quote powerful car so in
something like this especially it's
really not worth it as we can't
realistically room with no effort or at
all anyway and all this has really been
doing a second hot air considering the
results I think the best thing to do is
fit a larger Inlet snorkel I don't have
spend over and rapine NOPD 160 snorkel
just for the sake of this test so it's
time for some temporary DIY duct in uses
him aluminium four-inch duct in I got
from the DIY store for about ten pound
what we need to do is refit all the
original parts of - the snorkel and then
fit the new toe
first job are fit the new duct is
removing this front bit of the old one
looking at this I'm wondering if this is
more the restriction than the actual
snorkel itself as that is necks into
pretty tiny it's certainly not forced
cold air because there's a gap there
which one for cleaning the engine bay
and on this side not only is the ducting
it's big on the inlet but the ducting
faces the engine bay more than anything
and the bit to the actual car itself
would be a 90 and then another 90 degree
turn which is pretty crap for air flow
to say the least
rather than you watching me massive out
for half an hour adapting some aluminium
tube to fit there as a new snorkel this
is gonna be a bit repeater style and the
job of here's one I made earlier
and here is the one I made earlier
basically not really pretty but that
replaces the inlet snorkel then it goes
around there and that goes straight on
to the AB obviously it doesn't seal
perfectly but it seals at least is good
probably much better than the standard
sir so it's a fair test
for the sake of test I'm going to use a
couple of magic cable ties to hold it
all on
a little bit of aluminium tape
at the inlet duct and which although if
you see that is actually a pretty bloody
good seal along but now at least I'm not
going to enlarge the feet to the air box
because well let's see what difference
this makes first and we could do that in
the future if need be but in the
meantime let's go test it results from
the duct turns in and to be fair I'm
pretty bloody surprised how good it
would be and it would be better but
exactly how much better is firstly
amazing
I saw best had not point to 6 psi
restriction which is actually better
than any results before hand even with
no air filter at all and the worst I saw
was naught point 4 0 psi restriction
which was only a little bit worse then
with no filter no nothing the best
results actually saw it quite high-speed
three points on your license top speed
on the motorway so I'm guessing that was
a slight ram-air effect it made that
even better than the no air filter at
all results but to be honest the results
are only slightly better than with
nothing at all so whatever Rama effect
there is it's very tiny and not enough
you'd feel it's something you'll only
find by testing it with a digital
manometer it's not any true ram air
effect you're not going to see PSI on a
boost gauge it's literally a very small
amount while I wasn't really testing
this because it's kind of a given it
would improve things lower down if it's
going to improve it up top but the the
amount of restriction lower down what
was shown on the gauge was far lower
than any other test by a long way to
extent it was almost shown zero until at
least the mid range whereas all the
others shown a restriction almost
instantly it's fair to say afterwards
testing the way forward is this bigger
inlet duct and the others aren't even
worth considering bothering with so
let's go out there with the timing gear
again and see what performance times
were actually get see if there is a
real-world improvement I mean you've got
right three quarters of a PSI difference
in the lack of vacuum but does that
equate to any real performance
difference you should do but let's find
out by the time we finish hooking up all
the time in gear it's pretty gonna be
dark so the next time of speech you
should be tomorrow
well as testing all completed and it's
now actually day three because it keeps
getting dark on me and I run out of time
carve out faster with this new snorkel
even when I was doing the inlet
restriction test it felt better but you
just didn't know but as soon as the
timing gear was on it was pretty
apparent from almost straightaway where
the times were almost consistently at
least a second faster almost every read
was low tens or high nines and the best
run after at least ten I mean this is
the same stretch of flat road and me
going over and over again it's pretty
boring but I needed to try and make it
as actor as possible the best time was
actually 8.6 seconds over two seconds
faster than standard and that's just by
removing what is literally naught point
eight psi of an inlet restriction which
I don't actually think it's very much
because even on the cars 130 horsepower
more they still use the same snorkel so
I would say there's as far worse you
know I've looked at the inlet on this
and it's not the worst looking thing in
the world so I suspect a lot of other
cars suffer from problems similar to
this if not far worse especially once
tuned because the best time of 8.6
seconds is over two seconds fast and
then banded which is 20% faster in fact
off by removing just naught point 8 psi
of an inlet restriction bearing in mind
this is a completely bog standard PD 100
engine not even the PD 130 which is got
30 horsepower more but it's got the same
Inlet and on a lot of cars tune cars or
just completely different engines all
together they no doubt got far worse
restrictions and this holding them back
I'm pretty amazed by the results to be
honest and for now on I'm definitely
going to be using this manometer to
check other in neck restrictions so I
feel that testing what's the conclusion
well first that people's theories were
true my intake snorkel is a real
significant restriction even on my car
we have only 100 brake so imagine what
it's like on these thousand is 50 or 60
break more it must be absolutely
massively horrendous as on the face of
the set don't actually look very
different to any other two
poor cars standard in this out the
snorkel isn't much smaller it's a pretty
normal shape the air box and everything
else is the same similar shape and size
to most others and to be honest I'm sure
a lot of inlets and cars are far more
restrictive than this especially more
powerful cars and from now on they're
all got the equipment and it's
relatively easy to do only testing as
many as I can get my hands on this test
is kind of opened up kind of worms to
you though because now I want to know
how bad this intake restriction really
is when they're in produces more power
so Sagaris I want to try and get the car
remapped
and then once again try the standard
intake and then the big one that I fit
in which were it's a wearable standard
power and then maybe if that's showing
any kind of restriction at all enlarge
the inlet hole to the airbox hopefully I
got all that sorted so part two of this
textbook haven't seen the meantime
hopefully you've enjoyed this testing
and this tech info and it's taught you
something
Walter talk now you can do it to your
own car so there's no more guessing if
you need an intake or if you're in taste
good or not you just go out there and
try it yourself
obviously please like and comment on
this video and if you've not already
subscribed please do I hope you've
enjoyed it and I'll be seeing you soon
thanks for watching and good bye
you