Why is my hair not curling
Your Hair DOESN'T Hold A Curl? WATCH THIS!!!
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doesn't it suck when you spend all this
time doing your hair and it just won't
hold a curl it's annoying today i'm
going to demystify why your hair won't
hold a curl and then i'm going to give
you some techniques on what you can do
to fix the aid old question of why the
hell won't my hair stay curly let's
start with the reasons why reason number
one is moisture and now moisture can be
categorized into several different
subcategories the first subcategory i
want to talk about is hair
moisture so if your hair has too much
moisture in it it's not going to hold a
curl now when we talk about moisture we
have to talk about hair in two different
ways we have the hair that's dry damaged
that's been through a lot of heat
processing that's been through a lot of
chemical processing and that also has a
lot of texture and then we have hair
that's very fine that's very healthy
that's very silky and that hair can be
placed into a different category when we
were talking about moisture now if you
fall into category one then you
obviously need to put some moisture into
your hair and if you don't put moisture
into your hair what's gonna happen is
you're gonna end up with really really
dry damaged hair you're gonna do more
irreparable damage and you're also
probably going to end up with a really
really frizzy result so when it comes to
that type of hair obviously you need to
use some types of moisturizing products
but here is a tip for you if you have
that hair type and you know that you're
going to be wearing your hair curly on
this day switch over in the shower to a
lighter weight conditioner so typically
when we have that hair type we tend to
buy products for dry damaged frizzy hair
you might also want to pick up a bottle
of daily conditioner you know use the
word or the adjective you know daily
when you're looking at the bottle or you
might want to pick up a conditioner that
says volumizing and when you're going to
curl your hair if your hair doesn't hold
curl on that day you want to use a
volumizing conditioner instead of a
conditioner for dry and damaged hair
what that's going to do it's going to
put a little less moisture a little less
weight into the hair and by default your
curls are going to last much longer now
if you have very fine hair smooth hair
virgin hair silky hair healthy hair then
you fall into a totally different
category so in general you really
shouldn't be using conditioners for dry
damaged hair ultra moisturizing
conditioners anyways because your hair
will lay really flat
but on the days that you're curling your
hair say you have an event and you want
your hair to last a long time you could
even go as far as skipping the
conditioner step you really don't want
any weight at all in your hair when you
are curling it so that there's nothing
in that hair that's going to weigh it
down another thing that you can do that
i used to tell my models a lot when i
worked in the fashion industry is you
can actually use your conditioner first
leave it on for five minutes so that you
get all that moisture and penetration
into the hair shaft and then shampoo as
your second step so that you don't have
a residue of conditioner on the
outermost layer of the hair shaft which
is the cuticle that's really going to
prevent your hair from falling super
super quickly with that said there is a
fallacy where people think that dirty
hair is better for styling i do a lot of
bridal styling i do 60 to 80 weddings
every single year and i'm gonna tell you
that i hear this time and time again
sometimes when we are doing updos and we
need a lot of texture and grit
one day old hair can be good but when it
comes to wearing the hair down with
waves with shine with you know curls we
definitely want freshly washed hair we
don't want hair that has any oil in the
scalp because that's going to weigh it
down and we don't want hair that's dirty
because that's also going to make your
curls drop and that brings me over to
styling products so when we are using
styling products we want to stay away
from any smoothing creams any hair
creams that are emollient we definitely
want to stay away from styling oils like
moroccan oil or argan oil anything
that's going to add weight to that hair
shaft you want to stay away from
anything that's going to make the hair
heavier silkier or more dense the second
type of moisture that can really really
kill your curls is atmospheric
moisture and that just means humidity so
humidity when it comes to hair that is
down that doesn't typically hold a curl
can be a real
only thing i can tell you about
that is that you need to use a smaller
barrel curling iron you need to use much
smaller sections and you want to use
products that are humidity resistant
products so kmx has a humidity seal
which is a finishing spray that you
apply at the end of your styling and
basically what it does is it creates a
barrier between your hair and the water
in the atmosphere that's going to help
offset that curl from dropping faster
because you're creating a bit of a
barrier you can also find a lot of
hairsprays that have humidity resistant
components to it so when you are
shopping for products if you want curly
hair and it is a hot and humid day you
definitely want to look on the bottle
for words like humidity resistant or
weather proofing as soon as you see
those words you know that those products
have elements in them that's going to
try to withstand you know the outside
forces another reason that has to do
with moisture is that your hair is just
too darn healthy your hair is too
moisturized so what that means if you
have really healthy hair if you have
virgin hair is that the cuticle layer or
the outermost layer of the hair which
looks like shingles on a roof is laying
super flat and super super tight on your
hair now when we are trying to
manipulate the shape of hair we need to
get those cuticle layers to lift we need
to get into the hair and if you have
like a bunch of little soldiers lined up
on your cuticle layer not letting
anything get through you're going to
have a much harder time holding styles
so what can we do about that let's just
damage the hell out of your hair i'm
just kidding we're not going to do that
but if you needed a reason to get
highlights or a balayage if you were
unsure you're on the fence if you want
to do more curly or wavy textures it is
a good option to allow you to have more
styling capabilities if you have that
soft and silky hair all right reason
number two is your hair cut i see this
time and time again in my brides and
bridesmaids when their hair doesn't hold
a curl often times it's because they
have the wrong haircut so right now a
really blunt haircut where all the
layers meet at the baseline so basically
there's no layers as you move up the
head every single strand meets at the
baseline that is very in style right now
it's a very popular haircut it's the
haircut that i have if you have hair
that is on the shoulder or longer and it
is blunt and your hair is silky smooth
and doesn't hold a curl you are going to
find that you are really really really
fighting a
you know battle that you cannot win at
that point the hair is so heavy and so
dense that even if you take away some of
the moisture elements you're still gonna
have a hard time keeping that curl in
place because of the weight of the hair
it's too heavy it's going to take that
curl and it's going to drag it right
down with it a way to get around this is
to add layers into the haircut and now i
know that shorter layers aren't as in
style anymore so you definitely don't
need to get short layers that is not the
only way to fix this issue even getting
a few
face framing layers or long layers
throughout the back is going to give
that weight removal that you need to
lift the hair up and maintain its curl
and shade so now that we know the
reasons why our hair isn't holding the
curl let's talk about some actual
techniques that will help you hold it
longer so when it comes to hair prep
hair prep is a very important part of
any styling that you do and that's what
you do before you even start using your
hot tools when we are working with wet
hair it's a really good idea to use a
mousse or a fluffy style product with
air in it that's really going to give
your hair a little bit of grit
right in that wet face so when you are
blow drying it out you're creating a
little bit more texture when it is dry
after you blow dry your hair and you are
at the dry stage you can prep the hair
even further the first thing you want to
do is you can use a dry shampoo so this
dry shampoo is by batiste it's
incredibly inexpensive i will leave
links to everything in the description
box below now that we are ready to curl
we want to spray each section with a
working spray or a flexible hold
hairspray this is really really really
important now that we have prepped let's
talk about the actual curling process
the first thing i want to talk about is
the size of the barrel the bigger the
barrel the more wavy the hair the
smaller the barrel the curlier the hair
the most standard barrel size that i see
people using is the one inch barrel that
gives you a nice curl it's not wavy but
it's not super curly
if you tend to have hair that drops
really quickly you're going to want to
start curlier at first because it's
going to turn into wavy hair over time
this seems really counter-intuitive
because a lot of people are really
vibing the wavy look right now but if
you start wavy on hair that doesn't hold
it's going to go straight within about
an hour if you start curly it's going to
turn wavy within about an hour so you
have to kind of start
with the iron that's going to give you
the look you want over time and not you
know the immediate result number two is
the hot tool used so i find that curling
wands tend to drop curls faster than
curling irons or flat iron curls and the
reason for this is because the heat is
what's creating the curl and the heat in
curling irons and in flat irons is
actually being penetrated from both
sides so the hair is sandwiched in the
middle the heat's coming from one side
and the heat's coming from the inside
when we're working with curling wands
the heat is just staying on the inside
of the hair and it's heating you know
that interior part of the hair but
there's no heat coming in from the
outside now i know a lot of people
really prefer a curling wand because
it's very easy to use and you don't have
to fumble with the clips if that's you
and you want your curls to last longer
all you really have to do is pump up
your heat a little bit or you need to
leave the curl on the barrel longer now
that brings me to number three and
that's the amount of heat that you are
using the more heat you use the more
curl you get the longer the curls last
now with this said we have to be really
careful because heat can greatly damage
your hair so you really really don't
ever want to go more than 400 degrees i
find that when you get into those
barrels or into those wands that have
heat settings that are way up above 400
it's not going to curl your hair any
better than a 400 degree setting is it's
just gonna cause more damage so i always
say that the rule of thumb is as much
heat as you need never more so always
experiment with your irons start with a
low heat wrap it hold it for a little
bit of time unravel and see if it's
holding if it's not you can dial up a
little bit i would start around 300 and
move your way up if you have finer hair
you can withstand less heat than if you
have dense or very healthy or resistant
hair so you kind of have to plan
accordingly but the more heat you use
the curlier it's going to be and the
longer it is going to last the next
thing that i want to talk about that no
one seems to talk about is the
positioning of your hair on the curling
iron or on the curling wand this is
going to really change the way that your
hair holds so if you take your hair and
you kind of widen it out like a ribbon
and you place it flat on the curling
wand you are going to get a curlier end
result than if you take the hair and you
twist it and place it on the curling
wand if you twist the hair around the
wand you're going to get an s wave or a
body wave if you do this in a really
meticulous way you actually end up with
a gorgeous hollywood wave and i did a
whole video on that you guys can check
it out i'll link it up here but if you
want your hair to really last you want
to rib it out and make sure that as much
heat is penetrating through that hair as
possible finally let's talk about hot
hair now when your hair is still hot it
is still very pliable so the shape
hasn't set into the hair yet so if you
use a curling wand and you curl your
hair and then you go like this and you
run your hands through it when it's hot
what's gonna happen right away is your
hair is going to drop and the reason
it's going to drop is because it hasn't
set those bonds haven't cooled and set
so it's totally pliable and totally
malleable and that's why you can even
change your hair with hot tools right
because it becomes malleable and pliable
with heat so when your hair is hot you
do not want to touch it you need to
leave your hair in little logs of curls
all throughout your head before you comb
it out now the trend right now like i
said before is that wavy beachy sexy
vibe so obviously we're going to kind of
rough the hair out we're going to
separate it we're going to soften it out
but you can't do it when your hair is
hot if you have hair that drops if you
combine all of these techniques of cut
prep and curl you will end up with a
beautiful style that lasts you the whole
entire day thank you so much for
watching if you guys enjoyed this video
you may find this one really interesting
next i'll see you next week