you guys ready for chemistry class let's
get into it what's up guys trap right
here welcome back to the channel if you
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sexy yeah there's some white yes science
when it comes to dry hair there are tons
of variables that could contribute so at
the risk of trying to get really complex
in this video I'm just gonna go over the
five most common reasons that your hair
might be dry or damaged or brittle and
how to fix each one of them so if you
make it through this whole entire video
and you don't think I've covered your
specific situation then come over to the
Manor Mane's Facebook group and join us
you can ask very specific questions and
you can get more individualized answers
from the guys in the group and myself as
well but I mean you should join anyways
regardless if your question gets
answered orbit doesn't it's just one of
the best Facebook groups for hair
growers out there okay so let's get into
it the first and most common reason your
hair is dry could be because you have
low or high porosity hair so what the
heck is hair porosity well if you look
at this chart which you can download for
free in the description by the way it's
my hair type PDF each person can have
one of three different hair porosity so
you can have low medium or high but for
the purpose of this specific video I'm
just going to focus on the low and high
porosity so you can see how they
contrast and how both could lead to dry
hair so all porosity means is just how
well your hair absorbs and retains
moisture low porosity hair has really
tight cuticles so moisture oils creams
and lotions have
penetrating the hair but once it does
get in it holds on to that moisture
really tightly but since lo pours hair
struggles to absorb moisture at first
there's a chance it could get dry and
brittle but the good news for people
with low porosity hair is that once you
do successfully moisturize your hair it
holds on to that moisture really really
well and you won't have to moisturize it
again for a while so for low porosity
moisture it just think hard in hard out
for high porosity hair it's pretty much
the exact opposite think easy in easy
out
so the cuticle scales are raised and
damaged or they're wide open
and moisture absorbs really fast but
then it escapes really fast too it's
really easy to understand why this hair
is dry and brittle because it doesn't
hold on to moisture very well so
sometimes high porosity hair can be
genetic but more likely it's caused by
some sort of damage like too much heat
tools UV damage or overly chemical
treated hair and I actually kind of
study in 2008 from the Journal of
cosmetic science that found that
chemical treatments heat and UV damage
were a direct cause of high porosity so
what are these solutions to both of
these well some tips for people with low
porosity hair the first thing you're
gonna want to do is deep conditioned
with heat and I don't mean heat tools
I mean wear a hair cover when you're
doing a deep conditioning mask because
the heat will get locked in on your head
and those cuticle scales will open up
and they'll absorb that moisture you
also want to use lighter oils so coconut
oil is probably too heavy for people
with low porosity hair because it'll
just sit on the outside and it might dry
your hair out even more making it more
brittle so lighter oils like grapeseed
oil sweet almond oil these are great
options for you and you also in a
shampoo and condition with warm water
because that will help open up those
cuticle scales which will help your hair
dry faster as well so another method
you'll want to look at is called the L
Co method and this stands for liquid
cream than oil so you're gonna start
with lukewarm water as your liquid and
then you're going to add a cream like a
leave-in conditioner or a butter and
then you're gonna seal all of that in
with like a lightweight oil like an
olive or a grapeseed oil so the goal is
to open that cuticle add in the cream
and then lock it in for ultimate
moisturizing and the best time to do
this
is right after you shampoo and condition
your hair because it's already wet it
already has the liquid step in there and
then before styling it so this will
allow you to keep your hair moisturize
and styled for a few days before needing
to wash and condition again so that's
the lco method liquid cream oil so for
high porosity hair you will want to use
a shampoo and conditioner with protein
in it to replenish all the proteins that
are being lost from those damaged
cuticles we need shampoo and condition
your hair you want to use lukewarm water
to get as much that moisture in as
possible and let it sit for at least 5
minutes and then when you rinse out your
hair you're gonna want to switch to cold
water so this will help seal those
cuticle scales back up and then you will
also want to do something called the loc
method which is liquid oil and then
cream so it's the same as the LC oh
you're just switching the oh and the C
if you're wondering how to remember
which one you need to do the way I like
to memorize it is LC o rhymes with Lo
and LOC is pronounced loc you want to
lock in that moisture for high porosity
hair and then L Co lo LOC LOC high so
what is the loc method well after you
wash and condition your hair it's
already going to have the liquid in it
so then you're going to want to add an
oil like a coconut oil or an argan oil
something very nourishing and then
you're gonna want to lock it in with a
leave-in conditioning cream or a butter
like a shea butter and then you'll just
let your hair dry naturally don't use
heat tools that's gonna evaporate the
oil and dry your hair out again so for
high porosity hair the goal is sealing
and healing that's what that last step
does the cream it seals it in so the
second reason your hair is dry and
brittle is that your pH levels are too
alkaline what the heck does that even
mean am i spinning out ms no so two
things to know about your hair
one is that hair carries an electrical
charge which if you've ever touched the
Van de Graaff generator that you see at
museums those balls and your hair sticks
up and that's just because your hair as
an electrical charge number two is that
your scalp and hair shaft have a pH
level and to explain this I'm gonna get
into a little bit of chemistry 101 so a
few definitions that will help you
understand this moving forward the first
is what is pH pH stands for potential
hydrogen which basically is a
measurement that measures a
concentration of hydrogen ion in a
solution pH is measured on a scale from
zero to 14 with water being perfectly
balanced at equilibrium at a pH of seven
so something is acidic or it has an
overabundance of positively charged
hydrogen ions it's gonna measure between
zero and six point nine and if something
is too alkaline it has an overabundance
of negatively charged hydroxide ions and
it will measure between seven point one
to 14 so when positive hydrogen ions
combine with negative hydroxide ions in
perfect equilibrium this is what
produces water
aka h2o but sometimes water
disassociates through a process called
Auto ionization and when too many
hydrogen ions or hydroxide ions are
present in a solution it becomes either
too acidic or too alkaline
and to what degree that happens is
measured on the pH scale I'm gonna bring
this back around a hair in a second it's
just important to understand this so
stick with me okay so the second
definition to understand is the
isoelectric point of something simply
put this is the pH level at which the
net electric charge of something is
neutral and this is really important to
understand for hair so our hair shaft
has a pH level of a route three point
six seven and then the sebum on our
scalp has a pH level of around five
point five this may be acidic if you
look at it compared to water on the pH
scale but the isoelectric point for
untreated hair is three point six seven
meaning that any products that you use
that are more alkaline than three point
six seven will give a negative static
charge to your hair so this is not a
myth a study was actually done in 2014
to measure how shampoo pH can affect
your hair and if this is myth or reality
that was what they were trying to look
at so this study's conclusion was and
I'm quoting an alkaline pH relative to
your hair may increase the negative
electrical charge of the hair fiber
surface and therefore increase friction
between the fibers this may lead to
cuticle damage and fiber breakage it is
a reality and not a myth that lower ph
levels of shampoo may cause less
frizzing and generate less negative
electricity on the fiber surface so it
did go on to say that it's still up for
debate
what pH range is ideal for shampoos and
that pH levels are not required to be
put on shampoo and conditioner bottles
but basically what this means is that
anything you put in your hair like
shampoo conditioner even water that's
above your hair is isoelectric point of
three point six seven will create a net
negative electrical charge and when
there's an increase in the alkalinity of
the hair compared to that isoelectric
point this can cause flyaways for his
tangles it can increase friction between
fibers which can lead to cuticle damage
so since the hair and scalp pH ranges
are slightly different with hair being
three point six seven and your scalp
being around five point five there is no
agreed-upon perfect ideal pH levels for
shampoos and conditioners even water at
a pH of seven can create a net negative
charge in hair but these chemists who
formulate shampoos and conditioners they
do know this and they put in cationic
and non ionic compounds and to help
lower the static negative charges
basically I've also read a few articles
that make the argument that a pH level
right between hair and scalp is ideal so
something like four to five pH although
it is still up for debate but the same
study went on to say that only 38% of
name-brand shampoos at a pH level under
five so if you're buying big name labels
or like off-the-rack to in ones or
something like that chances are your
shampoo is too alkaline and could lead
to frizzing so if your noticed your hair
is crazy frizzy or too dry you can try
using a more acidic solution to bring
back that net neutral isoelectric point
and if you think your hair is way out of
balance something you can try as an
at-home solution is Alba apple cider
vinegar which has a pH of three and that
will bring balance back to your scalp in
your hair but I wouldn't use it too
often as the acidic ph can cause scalp
irritation since it's more acidic than
your scalp it's overused but this can
help bring your hair back down to its
neutral isoelectric point of that three
point six seven okay moving on
but remember pH because we're gonna come
back to it in a second
the third most common reason you might
have dry or brittle hair is you're just
using the wrong hair products and guys I
get it we want simplicity we want
efficiency we walk into the drugstore
where we find the cheapest two-in-one
shampoo we can find and we call
today but there are some dangerous
ingredients that do dry out your hair
and many of these options the most
common being sulfates sulfates are used
as surfactants and lathers that give the
suds in shampoos the most common
sulfates are sodium lauryl sulfate
sodium laureth sulfate ammonium Laurel
sulfate and alpha olefin sulfonate and
these are classed as anionic surfactants
which may deep cleanse your hair really
well but it also greatly raises that
negative electrical charge
so cosmetic chemists have to add even
more cationic and non ionic surfactants
to formulas to reduce the static
electricity that these anionic
surfactants have so when you read
sulfate free shampoo on the label what
they're mainly referring to is that it's
reef from these anionic sulfates that
dry your hair out and strip your
proteins too much so the goal for you
would be to use gentler sulfate free
shampoos that won't strip your hair of
those vital nutrients and proteins and
dry it out there's also been several
studies linking sulfates to protein loss
and to contact dermatitis which is just
a fancy word for like skin irritation so
March 2005 study in the Journal of
colloids and surfaces by all interfaces
found that hair treated with sodium
dodecyl sulfate which is a common
shampoo ingredient lost twice as much
protein as hair rinse with just water
and the protein loss increased as the
temperature of water increased as well
another study in 1996 in the American
contact dermatitis Journal found that
SLS sodium lauryl sulfate cause skin
irritation in some individuals and led
to itchy dry scalps so make sure you
have sulfate free shampoos that are free
of those anionic surfactants the fourth
reason your hair could be dried too much
is too much heat tools so washing your
hair with too hot of water can cause the
layer of sebum on your scalp to dry up
it could cause dry skin and flaking if
you're using like piping hot water also
if you use too high of heat on the
blow-dryer this has been linked to
cuticle damage which leads to high
porosity hair so a 2011 study in the
annals Journal of Dermatology found that
the higher the heat was on your blow
dryer and the closer it got to your hair
follicles led to much much higher levels
of damage on your hair
so one thing you could try is switching
to an ionic blow-dryer which shoots out
negative ionic charges to sort of offset
the positive ions from water and it
dries it quicker leaving less frizz
although the best thing you can do is
just use cool air you know I haven't
found a whole lot of studies on the
ionic dryer it's just a lot of marketing
so take that piece of advice with a
grain of salt so the fifth reason is
it's just your natural hair type and if
you haven't downloaded my hair type PDF
I'm gonna link to it in the description
but you're gonna want to scroll down to
the scalp moisture section also people
who have curly hair like a type 3 or
type 4 might find that their hair is dry
because it's harder for sebum to travel
around their whole hair shaft as easily
making it harder for natural oils to
reach your end so using a light oil on
your ends might actually help with that
additionally there are four scalp
moisture levels you have balanced oily
dry and combination and if your scalp is
dry you have under active sebaceous
glands and if you have combination hair
then you might have an oily scalp but
dry roots so what can you do to fight
your jeans well if you have a dry scalp
here's a few tips for you you want to
wash your hair with in lukewarm to cool
water because hot water will dry out the
sebum on your scalp you also want to
wash your hair less to give your hair
more time for sebum production so I
would try cutting back to like 2 times
per week also doing deep conditioning
mask for 20 or 30 minutes can help
you're gonna want to use a shampoo and
conditioner with proteins like keratin
in it and make sure your shampoo and
conditioner is sulfate free if you have
the combination hair type which is the
oily scalp but dry ends some things that
you can do are when you're washing your
hair if you have long hair to only
shampoo your scalp and then only
conditioned from your mid shaft to your
ends and leave the conditioner in for 5
minutes another tip for you is to use a
hydrating oil on your ends daily or
every other day and argan oil is a
really good option here because it does
have a lot of nourishing nutrients and
benefits to your hair you also do want
to use sulfate free shampoos just
because it dries out your hair and you
want to brush at least twice daily in
the morning at night with either like a
boar bristle brush or a nylon paddle
brush or a wooden brush to spread the
sebum oils from your scalp to your ends
and don't forget to trim
or dry split ends did you guys enjoy
science class I know as a long video
leave a comment if you enjoy these types
of videos and let me know what else you
like to see and I'll talk to you guys
later peace dry hair hi my part is not
even oh my gosh we're gonna run it like
this for this video sorry the middle
part fans I'm doing a side part today
[Applause]
alright
mushroom drink not coffee it's a
mushroom drink pH levels are too high
alkaline and the most common salt
sulfates that
so using Sol freak